synthetic Rubies

History

Synthetic gem crystals have been manufactured since the late 1800s, and their production is often marked by a need for them in industrial applications outside of the jewelry industry. The first success was in producing synthetic ruby of faceting quality.[1]

In 1887 Verneuil announced he could produce synthetic rubies on a commercial scale using this flame fusion process, later also known as the Verneuil process. [2] By 1910, Verneuil's laboratory had expanded into a 30 furnace production facility, with annual gemstone production having reached 1,000 kilograms (2,000 lb) in 1907.

Most synthetic rubies originate from flame fusion, due to the low costs involved. Synthetic rubies may have no imperfections visible to the naked eye but magnification may reveal curved striae and gas bubbles. The fewer the number and the less obvious the imperfections, the more valuable the ruby is; unless there are no imperfections (i.e., a perfect ruby), in which case it will be suspected of being artificial. Impurities are added to some manufactured rubies so they can be identified as synthetic, but most need gemological testing to determine their origin.

Synthetic rubies have technological uses as well as gemological ones. Rods of synthetic ruby are used to make ruby lasers. The first working laser was made by Theodore H. Maiman in 1960.[3] Maiman used a solid-state light-pumped synthetic ruby to produce red laser light at a wavelength of 694 nanometers (nm). Ruby lasers are still in use. Rubies are also used in applications where high hardness is required such as at wear-exposed locations in modern mechanical clockworks, or as scanning probe tips in a coordinate measuring machine.

Imitation rubies are also marketed. Red spinels, red garnets, and colored glass have been falsely claimed to be rubies. Imitations go back to Roman times and already in the 17th century techniques were developed to color foil red—by burning scarlet wool in the bottom part of the furnace—which was then placed under the imitation stone.[4] Trade terms such as balas ruby for red spinel and rubellite for red tourmaline can mislead unsuspecting buyers.

original from National museum collection

Photo credit: Nationalmuseum

The ring from the museum’s collection was med during the Georgian period. Rings throughout the Georgian era often represented natural themes and intricate shapes. During this time, innovation in the use of gemstones - particularly large old world cut diamonds - occurred.

While diamond resources were quite limited (and remained so until the late 19th century), it was during these years that experimental settings and open facets were designed to allow more light reflection in colorful gemstones and striking diamonds - the Georgian era was when a real interest in maximizing flash, fire and brilliance of gemstones and diamonds set in jewelry began.

The Georgian era was also characterized by a need to preserve memories and the times of the day. As a result, distinct and very unique Georgian rings such as the memorial ring, the locket ring, and the poesy ring were created.

Colorful popular gemstones of this era were also used in rings including emeralds, rubies, sapphires, garnet, topaz and black onyx. Additional materials such as coral, mother of pearl, river pearls, and shell were also frequently used in rings. Some rings which used glass paste as an affordable gemstone imitation have survived in fair condition as well.

Whatever materials were used, Georgian rings are often highly colorful and crafted to reflect the Romanticism movement of the times. These rings were designed with intricate details and are a celebration of beauty and sentimentality.

 re-designed RING

RE-DESIGN

My focus has been on the rubies in the piece. The stones in the original ring from the museum’s collection was most likely foiled to give the stones a fire and brilliance. We don’t need too foiled our gemstones today’s; our cutting technology is so advanced that today’s gems have a luster in them.

Today there are tutorials numerous on Youtube of how to make synthetic rubies in your microwave. (https://youtu.be/ybcdRQmQcHQ) or in your workshop ( https://youtu.be/MLV1pPvTpIw).

I researched what the largest synthetic rubies that I could find for sale and my research resulted in the size 25x18 mm. The original ring has a size of 25 x 25 x 18 mm. The With today’s technological advance we can make man made rubies that are the size of the entire ring. The ring has been set in a ring with flowing forms that has a minimal design.

process picture

3d-model of redesign

Footnotes

[1] https://www.gia.edu/gem-synthetic

[2] "Lead Glass-Filled Rubies". GIA Global Dispatch. Gemological Institute of America. February 16, 2012. Archived from the original on June 14, 2012. Retrieved January 22, 2020.

[3] "Bahadur: a Handbook of Precious Stones". 1943. Archived from the original on September 27, 2007. Retrieved August 19, 2007.

[4] Maiman, T.H. (1960). "Stimulated optical radiation in ruby". Nature. 187 (4736): 493–494. Bibcode:1960Natur.187..493M. 

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